![]() ![]() I set the baffle back one inch, then I use an 18 mm. If you seal this box, it will have a good internal volume for most guitar speakers to perform well. ![]() Minimum external height would be about (top and bottom panels = 1.5", drivers measure about 12.5 x 2 = 25", another 2.5" + 1" + 1.5" = 5" between the drivers and the panels) 31.5". As wide and deep as the amp chassis, and tall enough to fit the chosen driver! They worked great because we love the sound of an open back cabinet, and the dims on an open back are not critical at all. Leo Fender's combo cabinets were not "designed", they were "measured". Wide enough to accommodate the widest head you will be putting on top of it, within reason. Unless you want to build it for use as a bass reflex (most guitarists have no need to do this), the dimensions are not critical. ![]() Your buddy will be able to cut out a beautiful box in an hour or two, so you are not going to be asking too big a favor (?). It is not much more work to get a nice flush fronted mounted driver if your buddy has a circle jig, which he probably does.ĭrivers are easier to swap out when you mount them this way, you get a little extra internal volume (for sealed designs), and you can use it without the (separate) grill to get the max audiophile effect! Holy cow!!! Don't get too haunted by the mids!!! This is largely driver-dependent but it can be really noticeable in some cases. This works better with some grill cloth than others.įront mounted speakers might provide a noticeable boost in high end and dispersion. That requires a separate grille assembly, which adds weight, but air leaks really screw up performance of sealed designs, so be aware of the compromises.Īnother solution is to only wrap the grille cloth around the narrow edge of the baffle, securing it with staples, and use the clean back and a gasket to get a fine, airtight seal. If you're using a sealed design, most guys use a dedicated seal (like foam weather stripping) as a gasket. It can be too stiff and it won't lay down flat and even to get an airtight seal without warping the baffle! Guys sometimes have trouble using the grille cloth to seal that front seam around the baffle. The bolts can attach from the front or back, but the joint has to be absolutely rigid and airtight, especially for sealed designs. Of course, you already knew that, judging from your choice of BB for the baffle and pine for the other panels! The baffle gets hammered with the most energy so it has to mount rock solid. * If you are placing an international order, please contact us prior to checkout to discuss shipping quotes.Cleats and plenty of t-nuts and strong bolts. This amp has been lovingly maintained by its original owner and has seen no modifications other than the standard 3-prong conversion, modern replacement tubes, and some unoriginal back screws on the cabinet. (see photos) but this sweetheart is one of the cleanest we have seen and won't last long! There's a circular hole that's been cleanly cut in the bottom of the head (see photos) we're not sure if it's original or not but it doesn't affect functionality and isn't visible most of the time. Very minor cosmetic wear and tear in the tolex, small break in the original grille cloth, etc. Truly one of our favorite Fender sounds from the era in a glorious, large package that would live comfortably in a studio space or professional touring rig. ![]() The vintage JBLs are clean and clear with amazing headroom, nicely worn in but not worn out. The 40W 6GA-7 circuit has a blooming and percussive quality to its response that is oh-so-special and can be paired with other cabs or attenuators for a variety of responses. This is a seriously clean gem of a collectable Fender! Gorgeous cleans at every stage of volume resulting in syrupy, dynamic and compressed lead tones when pushed towards ten. For sale is a 1963 Fender Bandmaster 6G7-A Piggyback 40W Head with its matching 2x12" Cabinet loaded with two sweet JBL K120 vintage speakers in excellent shape as well. ![]()
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